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On a remote nature reserve in Kenya, an Anglo-African family is helping preserve local wildlife by living alongside it—and inviting guests to do the same.
Saba Douglas-Hamilton and I were sitting beneath the acacia trees beside her lodge in the Kenyan bush, talking about how, while filming in a dried-up riverbank, she narrowly escaped being crushed by an enraged elephant. Tall, tanned, and barefoot, with windswept hair and watchful eyes, the wildlife filmmaker and broadcaster looked every inch the fearless conservationist.
As she spoke, a hefty rustling in some nearby foliage signaled the arrival of an elephant. “It’s Anwar, one of the teenage bulls,” she whispered. We watched in silence as Anwar feasted on foot-long seed pods from a sausage tree just yards away. “They’re mostly friendly,” Saba said, “but there’s a bit of turf war that goes on between us.”
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The founder of Kenya’s Ol Donyo Lodge is now saving lions, rhinos, and elephants.
The sun has just come up over Kenya’s Chyulu Hills and Richard Bonham is already soaring over the plains where giraffes and oryxes are foraging for breakfast. His 44-year-old Cessna 206 has seen better days, but his bronzed fists grip the throttle with the authority of a man who’s logged 8,000 or so hours in the air. Down below, he spots his destination: the Mukururu Rhino Camp, outpost for one battalion of his game scouts. He also spots a problem.
“Ant bears have dug holes in the runway,” he says.
Even though he can only use half the dusty airstrip, Bonham deftly lands the plane and jumps out. At fifty-seven, he’s a trim six feet. He wears sea green chino shorts and R.M Williams half-boots. He’s greeted by Richard Kech. The former Kenya Wildlife Service warden is training Bonham’s scouts to protect the country’s last free-ranging black rhinos from those who’d kill them and saw off their horns.
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